Here is the Canon EOS R6 Mark II & Canon RF 135mm f/1.8L IS USM

navastronia

EOS RP + 5D Classic
  • Aug 31, 2018
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    I've had a few theatre gigs recently, mostly I attend dress rehearsals so shutter noise is not an issue. But sometimes there will be audience members and even though the R6 is quiet, I still know it's making a sound, that people can hear it, and it may affect or bother the actors and audience. Electronic shutter is not an option due to banding under LED lights.

    Canon, make it a stacked sensor and I'll finally have my perfect camera. Do it for the theatre!
    I also shoot theatre, so, you and me both!! Amen!
     
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    reef58

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    Still has the flippy and no tilt, too bad. Canon, would you please drop the flippy and incorporate a tilting screen. Or, add the tilt feature within the flippy that way photographers (not just content creators) will be happy.
    Username checks out with post content
     
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    Skux

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    Feb 21, 2020
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    Sounds like the problem isn’t Canon not listening to their customers. The problem is you not listening to Canon. See, they publish these things called user manuals that contain all sorts of useful information like the solutions posted above.
    Ironically none of my tip is actually listed in the manual :confused: It only states that the buttons can be customised but no explanation on what they actually do (the same with the fact that you can have multiple AF-on buttons each with different settings by using the 'INFO detail set' submenu).
     
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    neuroanatomist

    I post too Much on Here!!
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    Ironically none of my tip is actually listed in the manual :confused: It only states that the buttons can be customised but no explanation on what they actually do (the same with the fact that you can have multiple AF-on buttons each with different settings by using the 'INFO detail set' submenu).
    Yes, it takes a bit of deduction and some thought. Not everyone is capable of those.
     
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    David - Sydney

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    So , what is so great about staked sensor?
    The sensor read speed is greatly reduced. Reduced rolling shutter is one benefit but it will be interesting to know what the flash sync speed will be... it should be much faster than 1/200s for instance. The R5's sync speed is 1/200s (mechanical shutter) and 1/250s (Electronic first curtain).

    The Z9 (no mechanical shutter) achieves 1/200s with electronic shutter due to the fast sensor readout.
    The A1 achieves 1/400s with mechanical shutter and up to 1/200s electronic shutter
     
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    NorskHest

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    There have been several methods posted (so far, there are others, I use a different one) to achieve what you want.

    Sounds like the problem isn’t Canon not listening to their customers. The problem is you not listening to Canon. See, they publish these things called user manuals that contain all sorts of useful information like the solutions posted above.

    RTFM. Just kidding, you’re a forum troll so you’ll just keep complaining instead.
    Always picking fights
     
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    NorskHest

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    Totally agree. I sold almost all my EF lenses when I went mirrorless but I kept the 132 f2 L because I've always loved the images it produces. It would take some stellar reviews to make it worth it for me to get the new RF lens. But I'm still surprised the price isn't $3299 with the explanation of inflation + IS + 1.8 + reasons.
    I for some reason have not bought that lens but when I have used it I am beyond stoked with the results. It’s sort of like a 200 f2 with the results it delivers
     
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    David - Sydney

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    There have been several methods posted (so far, there are others, I use a different one) to achieve what you want.

    Sounds like the problem isn’t Canon not listening to their customers. The problem is you not listening to Canon. See, they publish these things called user manuals that contain all sorts of useful information like the solutions posted above.

    RTFM. Just kidding, you’re a forum troll so you’ll just keep complaining instead.
    Unfortunately, Canon doesn't allow the Rate button to be programmable :-(
    It would be perfect to switch between EVF/rear screen as the underwater housing blocks the face sensor.
    The Rate button would be ideal as the MF-n button (which I have to use) is not in an ideal position as your hands are holding the tray handles (shutter release has an extension) rather than the body itself.

    A minor thing but you would think that it should be possible to achieve in a firmware update.... and I have provided feedback to Canon about it.
     
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    wockawocka

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    Sep 13, 2011
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    I realize we only need to wait a few hours to find out, but has anybody calculated the length of the 135 based on the image? To my eye it's about RF 100mm macro length or less. I was worried that the size of this thing but it appears it is pretty compact
    It's likely the same length or shorterthan the EF 135L, just a bit fatter.
     
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    NorskHest

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    IBIS is generally more effective at shorter focal lengths, once you get into longer telephoto ranges IS in the lens becomes more beneficial. Having it work together with the IBIS also extends the IBIS effectiveness a bit into longer ranges as well.
    I and probably many know this, I guess I was more or so saying that hopefully people don’t put themselves out getting a lens that may not deliver much better results than what is out there. We often get so hung up on the new new that we don’t even go play with what we have. The latest is not always the greatest
     
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    Cyborx

    EOS 90D
    Feb 3, 2019
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    There have been several methods posted (so far, there are others, I use a different one) to achieve what you want.

    Sounds like the problem isn’t Canon not listening to their customers. The problem is you not listening to Canon. See, they publish these things called user manuals that contain all sorts of useful information like the solutions posted above.

    RTFM. Just kidding, you’re a forum troll so you’ll just keep complaining instead.
    You keep calling me a troll, absolute bullocks.
    Can you explain to me, and the crowd, if in spot focus mode (selecting a point in the viewfinder to focus on), how can you assign a button on the back of the camera to switch to Eye-AF and make sure the camera STAYS in Eye-AF mode until you hit that button again?
    And don’t give me that “read the manual” stuff, I’ve read it plenty times. Just tell me how to assign a button that switches from spot to eye (and back to spot without having to scroll all focus options) without having to hold it down the whole time.
     
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    David - Sydney

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    You keep calling me a troll, absolute bullocks.
    Can you explain to me, and the crowd, if in spot focus mode (selecting a point in the viewfinder to focus on), how can you assign a button on the back of the camera to switch to Eye-AF and make sure the camera STAYS in Eye-AF mode until you hit that button again?
    And don’t give me that “read the manual” stuff, I’ve read it plenty times. Just tell me how to assign a button that switches from spot to eye (and back to spot without having to scroll all focus options) without having to hold it down the whole time.
    Can't you use dual back button focus? There are lots of you tube videos and web sites with explanations. It isn't in the manual but is "widely" used to switch between spot and eye-AF
    The Set button also resets the spot back to the centre point as well which is useful for me.
     
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